Susanoo Shrine Fujito

 

After another couple of kilometers walking down the Kurashiki River from the Misaki Shrine I crossed the river to head south and came upon this substantial village shrine.

It was originally called Gyoeki Shrine but changed its name to Susanoo Shrine in 1868.

It was founded in 888.

Architecturally it was simple and uninteresting.

A male-female pairing of Bitchu Kagura masks probably represent Susano and Kushinada.

There were multiple secondary shrines in the grounds including an Inari Shrine and an Akiba Shrine.

The previous post in this series on day 8 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on nearby Misaki Shrine.

Misaki Shrine Aruki

 

Heading southeast out of old Kurashiki I follow the Kurashiki River towards the next pilgrimage temple on my walk.

In Aruki I stop in at the local village shrine that seems to have a somewhat honorable past.

Said to have been founded in the 12th century by a Moritsuna Sasaki, a retainer of the Minamoto during the Genpei War, he defeated a Taira army nearby in the Battle of Kojima.

The most curious thing here was this ceramic figure on the roof. Does not appear to be an Onigawara, nor a tengu, and my wife has not seen anything like it before. Any info would be appreciated.

In 1611 the shrine was moved to its current location. The primary kami is listed as Onamuchi, a variation of Okuninushi, but the signboard also lists Kibitsuhiko, as well as Ojin and Jingu. There were also multiple secondary shrines in the grounds.

The previous post in this series on day 8 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage was on Achi Shrine in Kurayoshi.

Achi Shrine Kurashiki

 

Achi Shrine is located on a hilltop overlooking the Bikan Historic District in Kurashiki, and is now the pre-eminent shrine of the area.

The chinowa, the circular "rope" of grass for purification can be found at different times of the year at diferent shrines. Here it was mid August.

It is believed that in ancient times this was the site of a garden belonging to the local ruling clan and there is supposed to be remnants of a cran and turtle island stone arrangement from that time.

Around tye time the area started to develop as a political and merchant centre, a Myoken Shrine was moved here from a nearby temple.

Until 1868 it was known as Myoken-gu and changed the name to Achi Shrine at the time of Shinbutsu bunri.

The first shrine buildings were built in 1620.

The three main kami are now said to be the Munakata Princesses, Tagirihime, Tagitsuhime, and Ichikishimahime, collectively known for marine safety.

Myoken was a very popular shrine in Japan, dedicated to the Buddhist deity of the North Star. When most Myoken shrines were changed in 1868 they switched to a pair of obscure kami from the Kojiki. Why they chose the Munakata Kami here is a mystery.

There are a wide variety of secondary shrines and kami in the grounds including a Susano shrine that also brought in several other local shrine kami in the so-called shrine mergers of 1910.

A Tenmangu shrine also enshrines Yamato Takeru, Sarutahiko, and Omononushi as well as Sugawara Michizane. Curiously there were lots of Daruma dolls at this shrine.

Another sub-shrine enshrines Okuninushi, Kotoshironushi, and Homusubi.

There is also an Inari shrine brought here from nearby in the early 20th century. The shrine grounds has quite a famous Wisteria, and a Noh stage also.

I visited at the start of day 8 of my walk along the Chugoku Kannon Pilgrimage as I headed south out of Kurashiki towards the next temple, Rendaiji. The previous post was on Kurashiki Silhouettes the evening before.

Kurashiki Silhouettes

 

Around sunset I settled down with a view of the iconic bridge over the river in the Bikan Historic Quarter of Kurashiki.

Over the next hour or so a succession of people passed over the bridge.

Many stopped to enjoy the view.

many took selfies or posed for photos....

Bikan Historical District After Dark

 

The Bikan Historical Quarter is a major tourist attraction in Kurashiki, Okayama.

It developed as a major trading area during the Edo Period when the Kurashiki River allowed easy access to the main trade route of the Inland Sea.

Lined with many white-walled storehouses, now converted into trendy shops, cafes, museums, and accomodations.

The area also includes architecture from later periods.

It is one of the more than 120 Preservation Districts for Traditional Buildings in Japan.

Very, very busy during the daytime, most businesses close in the evening, but a few stay open making a stroll around the area at night much ess crowded and quite atmospheric.

Though many claim this is the best of the historical merchant districts in Japan, I find it a bit too much gentrified and upmarket. Very much a touristy spot, I prefer some of the less-developed merchant districts like Mima in Tokushima or Mimitsu in Miyazaki or even Yanai in Yamaguchi as they retain some of their historical authenticity.

 

The previous post was on the Ohashi House, a wealthy merchants property in the Bikan District.